Courtesy SFMOMA

In vino veritas, goes the old aphorism, yet the truth applies not only to what spills from tipplers’ mouths, but to our society at large. How Wine Became Modern: Design + Wine 1976 to Now, at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and developed in part by Diller Scofidio + Renfro, analyzes wine’s rise in cultural influence since the landmark 1976 Judgment of Paris (in which California vintages were deemed superior to their French counterparts) blew open the insular world of winemaking, marketing, and packaging. Included are four models of wineries-by-starchitects and a map of 200 worldwide. Also on view: exotic glassware, including Etienne Meneau’s Carafe No. 5 (shown), 200 wine labels, and a “smell wall.” Through April 17. •